This is the first time that I have featured Erdem Moralioglu’s work on the blog, but I have followed his line since it’s inception. The Canadian designer, who is based in London, is known for two recurring design motifs: florals and lace. Additionally, he is loved for his meticulous craftsmanship, exquisite use of color and precision cuts. The result is always indescribably beautiful.
Recent visits to the costume archives of London’s Victoria and Albert Museum and the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna led Erdem to think about “decaying dynasties.” For the Erdem AW 2014 collection he went decidedly darker than his usual fare, making his eerie florals winter appropriate. The fabrications were rich and the designs were decorative yet somehow they retained their lightness. This was Erdem with an edge, an ethereal, gothic edge. The color palette was subdued, with punctuations of gold, dove-gray and red among the mostly all-black designs. Although the mood was somber and the silhouettes serious, he kept hemlines short and paired them with Nicholas Kirkwood pointy flats which lent a youthful attitude. The combination was so utterly chic.
*I love how in the very last photo, you can see where Erdem left the threads hanging down. This gives the otherwise precious floral embroidery a modern finish. Artistically Brilliant!
Image credit: vogue.com