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One of the hottest tickets at London Fashion Week, Erdem Moralioglu is known for his richly colored florals and elegant cocktailwear. For the Erdem SS 2015 collection he took his garden party deep into the jungle. He drew inspiration from Victorian biologist and explorer Marianne North. She was also a celebrated botanical artist and Erdem visited the Royal Botanic Gardens in Kew, where there is a gallery dedicated to her.

Erdem Moralioglu’s presentation began with modest, Victorian silhouettes that gradually gave way to a darkly feminine feel. Much like the design concept, the color palette was focused: leafy greens with punctuations of white, black and pale citron yellow. Although romantic dresses dominated the collection, he paired them with Nicholas Kirkwood black oxfords or cross-laced flat Roman sandals, which gave the clothes a thoroughly modern appeal. As the show progressed, so did the invasion of the delicious trimmings… frond embroideries and feathers were painstakingly applied by hand. This gave decadent dimension to fine French lace and whisper light organzas.

My favorites are the tiered gowns in broderie anglaise. The black piece above is an example of the wearable couture the label is famed for. It’s enough to make any Paris couture house green with envy! This elaborate confection follows the architectural lines of a Victorian green house. This exquisite dress is a true showcase of the craftsmanship at the heart of Erdem.

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